BRASSY HAIR: WHY IT HAPPENS AND HOW TO PREVENT IT

Thanks @Redken artists for the great information on this subject!

Weeks after coloring your hair blonde, you start to notice something strange: the shade you left the salon with is no more, and now your hair has taken on an undesired yellow, orange or red tone. What gives? Brassy hair, that’s what.

Brassiness refers to the unwanted warm tones that show up in colored hair. It typically happens in dark hair that gets dyed platinum or blonde, but it can also occur in hair that’s been highlighted or in hair that’s been lightened to brown.

To understand why this occurs, you’ll need to understand what’s happening during the whole hair lightening process. To lift dark hair, bleaching with a mix of ammonia and peroxide is usually a necessary part of the equation. When hair is bleached, melanin, a dark brown to black pigment, gets diluted in a process known as oxidation.

Blonde model with highlights Photo Credit: @paintedbeaute

After bleaching, the next step is usually to apply your haircolor, which deposits artificial pigment onto your locks while removing some of your natural color.

Brassy haircolor becomes a problem when bleaching or lifting doesn’t get rid of all the underlying pigment in your hair, giving the warm tones an opportunity to reveal themselves. For lightened blonde hair, the underlying pigment is yellow, and for lightened brown to black hair, the underlying pigments are orange to red. When the brassiness starts creeping up, think of it as your natural hair telling you, “Hey, remember us?”

When brassiness occurs, that also means that among the red, yellow and blue color molecules your hair dye contains, the blue ones have made a faster departure, leaving—you guessed it—just the warm tones. Since the blue color molecules are smaller, they’re broken down easily and fade quicker with every wash. Unfair.

Fortunately, you have several options when it comes dealing with brassy hair, in terms of both preventing it and fixing it after it happens.

1. START OFF BY CHOOSING THE RIGHT PERMANENT HAIRCOLOR

Select a cool haircolor, like one with the word “ash” in the name, since it’s less likely to turn brassy than one that’s warm. If you gravitate toward warmer shades, don’t worry; there are plenty of lighter haircolors you can pull off that have a good balance of cool tones.

Need a place to start? Redken’s new Color Fusion Cool Fashion Collection contains 14 haircolors, including shades of blonde that are meant to provide cooler results and will counteract brassiness. Using C-Lock technology, the collection has larger dye molecules so cool tones stays in place for up to 8 weeks, and the haircolors all have a black-to-gray background so that warm tones are less noticeable.

2. HEAD TO THE SALON AND GET A TONER FOR BRASSY HAIR

A hair mask can help to soften and moisturize your hair.Photo Credit: @matheusredken

Toner, a translucent deposit of haircolor that fades in a few weeks, isn’t just great for altering your haircolor without the commitment. It can be a great brassy hair fix, too. Also known as demi-permanent color, glaze or gloss, toning can correct the unwanted yellow, orange or even red tones lingering on your hair since it contains just enough pigment to improve your haircolor. Plus, the service will enhance the shine levels of your strands in the process, so you’ll be doing your hair multiple favors in just one sitting.

Redken’s Shades EQ service, which can be used as a toner for brassy hair, does all of the above and raises the hair cuticle, giving hair volume and texture and improving manageability in the process. Plus, the toning service can take as little as 20 minutes.

Just remember that a hair gloss yields only temporary results. The good news is you won’t have to deal with that obvious growing out period situation with your roots like you might have to deal with if you decide to color your hair all over again.

3. GET A BOND-PROTECTING SERVICE

Photo Credit: @felicianogferreira

Since healthy hair is less likely to turn brassy, add in a bond-protecting service, like Redken’s pH-Bonder, during the bleaching or haircoloring process, to protect your hair from damage and strengthen your strands.

4. WASH YOUR HAIR WITH A COLOR-DEPOSITING HAIR PRODUCT TO NEUTRALIZE UNWANTED WARM TONES

Need an at-home brassy hair fix? If you’re blonde, go for a purple-tinted hair product, and if you’re brunette, go for a blue-tinted one, since yellow is opposite to purple and orange is opposite to blue on the color wheel.

5. AVOID THE SUN AND THE POOL

We know, we know: how can you say no to the pool and soaking up some rays? But if you want your haircolor to stay put, it’s best to stay away.

The chlorine commonly found in swimming pools can strip your hair dry, leaving your locks dull and damage-prone. And when hair becomes damaged, your haircolor will have a harder time staying in place, meaning more opportunities for brassy haircolor to show up.

Sun exposure can also do a number on your haircolor by making it fade faster and making brassiness more visible. So the next time you go outside, make sure you cover up or use a hair sunscreen.

6. USE A SHAMPOO FOR COLOR-TREATED HAIR THE REST OF THE TIME

Redken’s Color Extend Magnetics is free of sulfates to make sure that haircolor stays vibrant and healthy. Photo Credit: @Redken

Since overusing a color-depositing hair product may end up turning your hair blue or purple, only use it once a week. The rest of the time, apply color-protecting hair products, like Redken Color Extend Magnetics Shampoo, since they’re gentler than regular shampoo and tend to not include sulfate, which can fade haircolor.

7. INVEST IN A SHOWER FILTER

Washing your hair with water that leaves a large amount of mineral deposits, including chlorine and iron, is bad news for colored hair since the buildup is drying and the chemicals could end up fading your haircolor, leading to another opportunity for brassy hair to reveal itself. A shower filter can help cut down on the mineral deposits, so your haircolor stays around for longer.

Need some cool-toned haircolor inspiration? Browse through @Redken on Instagram for a picture to show your hairstylist.

WHAT CAUSES HAIR STATIC & 7 WAYS TO FIGHT IT

Thanks to the Redken Professionals for givings us such great tips on Frizz and fly-awyas.

No matter how often we moisturize our hair during the winter, escaping static electricity seems impossible. To better understand how to tame your hair static, you find need to know a little bit more about what causes it.

SO, WHAT CAUSES HAIR STATIC?

Static electricity is created when two unlike objects rub against each other. The process causes electrons from one object to be transferred to the other. The object that loses the electrons gets a positive charge, while the object that gains electrons get a negative charge. Take hat hair for instance. When the material of your hat rubs against the strands of your hair, they swap electrons. This swap causes a kind of electric charge to build up on your hair. Usually, if there is humidity in the air, the charge can usually just go away.

However, if there isn’t any humidity or moisture in your hair, like on a dry winter morning, the charge causes your strands to repel from another like a magnet. In short, your hair is literally so full of electrons that it can’t stand itself. Now, that you know what causes static electricity let’s talk about ways that you can fight it.

HERE ARE SEVEN WAYS TO FIGHT OFF STATIC ELECTRICITY IN YOUR HAIR.

1. TURN TO HAIR OILS

Image of Redken All Soft Argan-6 OilPhoto Credit: @redken

One of the reasons that your hair is conducting an electric charge is that it’s dehydrated. During the winter, our strands can become dry due to lack of moisture in the air. Needless to say the cold winter winds and warm indoor heat are not doing your hair any favors. Give your hair some TLC by moisturizing your strands with argan oil. This powerful oil is full of nutrients that can help to replenish the moisture in your hair and keep fly-aways at bay.

2. UPGRADE YOUR HAIR DRYER

Image of Sam Villa hair dryer Photo Credit: @redken

In order to help balance your hair’s natural charge, try using an ionic hair dryer when drying your strands. Ionic dryers work by emitting negative ions to help separate water molecules. This process not only helps to dry your hair faster, but it also helps to reduce heat damage that could dry out your strands.

3. FIGHT FRIZZ ON-THE-GO

Fight frizz on-the-go with Redken Frizz Dismiss linePhoto Credit: @redken

Don’t let fly-aways get the best of your hair. Fight frizz on-the-go by using anti-flyaway sheets throughout the day. Just stash a few in your purse and head out the door.

4. SWAP OUT YOUR HAT

Blonde French woman wearing red sweater and navy hat. Photo Credit: @redken

It’s time to ditch your cotton lined or acrylic hats in favor of options with silk or satin lining. By having a smoother fabric on your hair, your strands can lie flatter and won’t be roughened up by the material. Instead your hair will glide across the material, which will help to prevent frizz and dreaded hat hair.

5. COMB WITH HAIRSPRAY

Redken Artist, Richard Kavanagh go-to hair tools and hair styling productsPhoto Credit: @richardkavanagh

Don’t leave your house without hairspray or a metal comb this winter. They are the perfect travel companions for taming your mane during the colder months. Simply spray your metal comb with hairspray and comb from root to tip. The hairspray will help to tame any fly-aways without causing the hair to feel crunchy or hard. Also, the metal comb itself helps to remove any built up static in your hair as the static will attach to the metal rather than your strands. How cool is that?

6. CONSTANTLY CONDITION

Brunette model with curly hair Photo Credit: @redken

Another great way to feed your hair the moisture it needs is by using a leave-in conditioner throughout the winter. The product will help to hydrate the strands and defend it against the varying temperatures and weather conditions. Simply spray the product throughout your strands and comb through to evenly distribute.

7. AVOID CLARIFYING SHAMPOOS

Model with brunette spiral curls, black jacket and white t-shirtPhoto Credit: @tinakunakey

Instead of cleansing your hair with a clarifying shampoo this winter, try using a hydrating shampoo instead. Since clarifying shampoos can strip the hair of all its oils and leave the hair dry, a hydrating option will help to preserve some of that moisture and minimize the static.

DID YOU KNOW CHAMPAGNE CAN ACTUALLY IMPROVE YOUR HAIR AND SKIN?

It’s officially champagne season and we have major news—the best part of the NYE countdown also happens to be a fab beauty ingredient. That’s right, our fave holiday beverage is pulling double duty to get you glowing from head-to-toe. Read on to find out how champagne is not only good for hair and skin, but it will keep you looking your best, well after Auld Lang Syne.

champagne hair
(image via twenty20)

CHAMPAGNE HAIR & SKIN

Champagne is the best (clinically!) because it contains polyphenols. Defined as micronutrients, polyphenols contain antioxidant properties—meaning they are super good for you. Polyphenols pack a ton of health benefits including improvement of digestion; they are also used in the body as a natural defense against UV radiation and pathogens. And we’re happy to report polyphenols are just as beneficial in skincare and for our hair.

In fact, champagne is the toner we never knew we needed, according to the pros. “Champagne detoxifies the skin with antioxidants and lightening tartaric acid helps even out the skin tone,” Dermatologist Marina Peredo, MD, told New Beauty. “For those with oily skin, its antibacterial properties aid in leaving last year’s breakouts behind.”

To DIY your own bubbly scalp and skin toner, pop that leftover Veuve in the fridge and let chill. Next, reach for your cotton ball and give this drugstore standby the most luxurious soak of its life. Take your champagne-stewed cotton ball and blot over you facial skin—expect it to reduce inflammation and redness while fighting acne. Next, work your way up. Part hair so you can reach the scalp and work through, letting the champagne bubbles cleanse and clarify. Note-always do a patch test first before trying out something new, just to confirm this is the right treatment for you.

To really penetrate locks and get the most from this does-it-all dream drink, do a champagne hair rinse. The UV-fighting polyphenols will guard your tresses against damaging sunrays while clarifying.

If you’re looking to go all in, and maybe you overestimated how much your guests could drink, pour your leftover bubbly into the bath. This major exfoliant will not only make you feel rich (we are literally ringing in 2018 with a champagne bath) but leave skin and hair softer and smoother.

For those who want all the benefits of champagne, but prefer not to DIY, here are our champagne-based selects for skin and hair.

Look your festive best! Holiday season must-haves

Expert advice from our Master Stylist Mallory..

It’s that time of year! Twinkle lights are glowing, stores are frantic with holiday shoppers, and you have 3 parties on the calendar per week! Here are a few of our favorite products to keep you looking and feeling your best, without the stress!

IGK PreParty

Add some sparkle to any style with this spray! Fine pieces of glitter will make you the envy of any and all lights that deck the hall.  Whether you add it to your everyday curls, or spray it over a festive updo, Pre Party is sure to get you in the mood to celebrate!

Redken Forceful

A great hairspray to hold your hair all day! Although we would recommend this hairspray all year round, it is one of our favorites for this time of year. With weekend days filled with gift shopping, straight to your bestie’s ugly sweater party, Forceful will leave you with touchable style from A.M. to P.M.!

So whether you’re sporting a voluminous blowout or winter soft curls, finish your look with Forceful

Idolize Matte Liquid Lipstick

Swerve’s Liquid Matte Lipstick is sure to be a makeup bag favorite!  Add some festive flair to your favorite LBD with this perfect red lip! Idolize is sure to compliment every skin tone.

Eat, drink and be merry without the worry of reapplying all night.

Babor Ampoule Concentrates- Lift Express

Put your best face forward this holiday season with these magical little ampoules! Lift Express will visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while giving your skin a wonderful glow.  Add this product to any skincare regimen for the boost you’ve been looking for.

 

Pureology Superfood Treatment- Hydrate

This time of year is sure to take a toll on your hair.  Between the cold dry air and heat tool styling, your tresses may be left feeling dry and dull. Pureology’s Superfood Hydrate Treatment is formulated with concentrated avocado and coconut oils to leave you with the silky strands you know and love!

Seasonal Pumpkin Facials just in time for fall!

 Tis the season for Pumpkin spice everything!

It’s Autumn and that time of the year when Pumpkin is the most popular ranging from Pumpkin pie,  pumpkin spice drinks and all sorts of pumpkin spice food. Pumpkin not only taste great but also has many health benefits. Did you know that pumpkin is also great for your skin!? Swerve Salon & Spa offers Pumpkin chemical peels without the spice.

Pumpkin chemical peel is great on all skin types including acne prone skin because it also contains both Glycolic and Salicylic acids. This treatment penetrates deep into clogged pores to exfoliate dead surface skin cells, soften appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and sun damage, improves skin texture and help skin maintain hydration.

Packed with Vitamin C and A, Alpha Hydroxy (AHAs) and Zinc, Pumpkin is a great source for promoting healthy glowing skin.  

We all know Vitamin C is a natural skin brightener. But Vitamins C and A helps to protect the skin from sun damage which assists in preventing skin cancer, reduces wrinkles, and prevents signs of aging by boosting collagen cells.  Alpha hydroxy (AHAs) helps to increase cell turnover which improves smoothness and texture of skin. Zinc, which is a main ingredient in most sunscreens because it is great for sun protection also helps control oil production in skin.

Image result for pumpkin facial blog

WHAT HAIRCOLOR IS RIGHT FOR MY SKIN TONE, HAIR TYPE AND LIFESTYLE?

Can I Go Red?

1. CAN I GO RED?

Do you have warm or neutral skin tones? It’s time to consider going red! Red is a high impact haircolor that instantly grabs attention. This wild cherry haircolor goes great on anyone with warm or neutral skin tones, especially those with blue, green, hazel or warm brown eyes.

Want to go red but have cool or darker skin? Select cooler red tones like a red velvet haircolor. If you are fair or have a warm skin tone, you will want to select a warm red color like ginger, auburn or copper.

Haircare Tip: When going red, don’t forget that red haircolor is the fastest to fade. You’ll want to avoid over shampooing, and protect your color with sulfate free shampoo when it is wash day. Plus, be sure to see your stylist regularly for a refresh to keep your hair its best red.

 

Does technique matter when choosing my haircolor?

2. DOES TECHNIQUE MATTER WHEN CHOOSING MY HAIRCOLOR?

The best approach to achieving haircolor that looks best is to be aware of the technique that will lead to a natural looking result.

Your stylist should work to highlight your facial features, natural hair fall and eye color when it comes to deciding what technique to use and where to lighten hair.

People of all skin tones benefit from the natural tones achieved through Balayage; the placement is key to enhancing natural beauty! Balayage is a natural “swept on” form of hair painting that enhances features by using open air processing, allowing for several levels of lift.

3. WHICH BLONDE DO I CHOOSE?

Which Blonde Do I Choose?

Cool blonde shades are great on porcelain-skinned gals with reddish undertones, since those icy hues tend to neutralize redness. If you have blue or gray eyes: cool, ashy blonde works perfectly! Suggested blonde tones include: Platinum ice, silver, ash, sand, beige or champagne.

Pro Tip:
 To achieve this guest’s glam summer look, double process hair at the roots then use the Balayage technique to brighten and blend mid lengths and ends. Glaze her after shampooing using 09P, 09T to cool and even out tones!

4. WHAT THE BEST BEACH-APPROVED BALAYAGE?

Beach-Approved Balayage

For those who spend their days in the sun and tan easily, this look is perfection!

To achieve this look, Balayage was essential! Why? Because it simulates the “sun-kissed” look. Balayage is all about creating a highlight that looks seamlessly natural!

Perfect for lovers of summers at the beach and a low maintenance, natural look! As her skin tone darkens with a tan, this cool natural look will continue to complement her, even when the sun brightens it up!

Pro Tip: Shades EQ and Blonde Icing were essential in achieving this look!

How to Emerge Fresh From the Plane: 7 Practical Tips From Expert Travelers

Traveling abroad has its pros and cons. On the plus side, it lets you explore new cultures firsthand while racking up frequent-flyer miles. The downside? The toll recycled plane air takes on your skin (not to mention, jet lag). “Traveling through time zones disturbs our body’s natural circadian rhythms, which not only disrupts the body, but also the skin,” explains Geraldine Schefermann, international training manager for professional skin care brand Dermalogica.

So, you ask, what exactly does air travel do to our skin? In general, any environment with less than 60 percent humidity increases transepidermal water loss, or the rate at which our bodies lose water. And since the average plane has just about 10 to 20 percent humidity (40 to 50 percent is ideal), it’s no wonder our skin looks dull and depleted by the time we get to our destination.

To find out how skin experts deal with the harmful effects of long-haul flights and overcome jet lag, we interviewed some of Dermalogica’s frequent travelers. Below are their top recommendations.

Travel Skin Care Tips - DermStore

 

1. Avoid makeup.

“Makeup can contribute to dehydration and irritation in the skin. But if you cannot go without, then take a gentle cleanser with you, preferably something that you can easily use without water. Then layer products, such as hydrating boosters or calming serums, onto the skin to protect against moisture loss.”

—Geraldine Schefermann, International Training Manager

 2. Consider aromatherapy.

“I use aromatherapy throughout the trip to try to sleep. I blend lavender and chamomile (lavender essential oil has been shown to calm and help people have a deeper, more restful sleep) and rub the mix onto my scalp, lower back and shoulders. I also try to book a foot reflexology or massage immediately after the flight.”

—Annet King, Director of Global Education

3. Choose water over wine.

“As soon as I get on the plane I set my watch to the time at my destination. I make sure I look at my watch every few hours and think about what time it is at my destination and what I would be doing if I were there. I also avoid alcohol on the flight and drink plenty of water. I keep my skin hydrated by spritzing it with Dermalogica Multi-Active Tonerevery hour and apply Dermalogica UltraCalming Barrier Repair and Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Balancethroughout the flight.”

—Dr. Diana Howard, Vice President of Research and Development

  4. If possible, take a red-eye flight.

“If the flights to my final destination are longer than 12 hours, I usually choose a red-eye flight so I can fall asleep easier on the plane. If I can’t take a red-eye flight, the first thing I do upon arrival is to take a warm shower, wash my hair, order some sort of soup (usually chicken soup) to my room and then take a nap. I close all the shades and request a wakeup call.”

—Sheyla Sevilla, Regional Sales Manager for Latin America and the Caribbean

 5. Walk in the daylight.

“When I arrive at my destination I take a quick shower and head outside for a long walk. Being in daylight helps reprogram your brain’s neurochemicals. Several hours in daylight also forces me to stay awake until it’s time to sleep. Just don’t forget the SPF—I only use Dermalogica UltraCalming Super Sensitive Shield SPF 30—as your skin tends to get sensitive due to the dry airplane environment.”

—Dr. Diana Howard

 6. Lie down to literally “ground” yourself.

“To get your body aligned magnetically to your new destination, lie on the ground to literally ‘ground’ yourself. Find a park or a beach and just stretch out on your back on the ground and practice abdominal breathing. To help feel less tired, jump in the pool. Swimming under water revives the sinuses by blowing water out of your nose. It’s also a great way to clear your head!”

—Annet King

 7. Allow enough time for jet lag.

“I have come to accept the reality that jet lag is a simple byproduct of long-distance travel that affects everyone. So I try not worry and get worked up about it. Instead, I give myself one to two days to adjust to local time.”

Ivor Gordon, Vice President of International Sales 

IGK HAIR CARE REVIEW

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Getting healthy looking hair is a priority for me. Especially with our wedding coming up, I am trying to take care in the products I use on my hair, how often I use heat tools, and avoid any drastic hair changes.

I’ve mentioned this before, but a few years ago I put my hair through the ringer. I damaged to the point of nearly no return. I had gone to the salon to get a few highlights and ended up walking out with platinum blonde, broken, and gummy hair. My scalp was burned and painful from the bleach, I had to get approx. 3 inches cut off my hair, and every time I washed my hair I noticed large clumps would break off. It was devastating, but it made me realize a few things:

  • Go to a hair dresser you trust
  • Don’t ever drastically change your hair colour
  • Invest in products that are truly GOOD for your hair
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For the last few weeks, I’ve been using IGK Hair Care. I was sent three of their products to try out, which include their Smoke & Mirrors Conditioning Cleansing Oil, Rich Kid Coconut Oil Gel, and Beach Club texture spray. These products are all vegan, cruelty-free, color-safe/UV-protectant, and free of parabens, sulfates, mineral oil, and petroleum. For me, that is all really important and makes me really excited about this brand and their products.

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IGK HAIR CARE REVIEW

SMOKE & MIRRORS CONDITIONING CLEANSING OIL

To use the Smoke & Mirrors Conditioning Cleansing Oil all you need to do is take a small amount and work it through wet / damp hair. Since it’s a cleansing oil, it replaces the typical two-step washing process as it’s both your “shampoo” and conditioner. To ensure it really cleans your hair, you need to really massage it into your scalp and hair.

Once it’s rinsed out you’re left with really soft and nourished hair. I personally love cleansing oils, and am happy to eliminate shampoos from my hair care routine. But, if you’re someone who has really oily hair, you may find this doesn’t clean your hair to the degree you’d like.  I would say this is perfect for those of you who are like me and struggle with damaged or dry looking hair. I found it made my hair feel really soft and healthy. Also, the smell of this cleansing oil is so lovely!

RICH KID COCONUT OIL GEL

Once you’ve washed your hair, it’s time to apply the Rich Kid Coconut Oil Gel. You want to take a small amount and work it through clean damp hair.

This gel surprised me. It’s much thicker than other leave-in treatments I’ve used. I had thought it would be like other leave-in conditioners I had used and instantly provide softer silkier hair, but I actually didn’t find this. While it did make my hair dry smoother and less frizzy than other leave-ins, it didn’t make it less tangled or softer feeling.

I did like this product, ( I loved the smell of it mostly) but I wouldn’t say it conditions your hair. Instead, I think it smooths your hair and eliminates frizz.

BEACH CLUB TEXTURE SPRAY

I am all about beachy waves and care-free hair. In fact, 99% of the time I don’t style my hair. I just braid it and let it be, so I have beachy-waves naturally. The one issue I find is that my hair can get very frizzy, so products that encourage a beachy but smooth and hold my hair in place are ones I tend to like. I have found that many “texture” sprays can leave my hair feeling oily, sticky, and heavy, but this spray is extremely light, and doesn’t make my hair look or feel heavy at all. Instead my hair feels very smooth, soft, and holds that beachy texture I love so much. I don’t know if this product would necessarily “create” a beachy look if you have stick straight hair or very curly hair, but I would say it smooths and helps your hair from getting frizzy.